There is something deliciously lazy about a Sunday morning. The day stretches out in front of you full of promise, yet there is no urgent need to do anything. You wake up without an alarm shrieking in your ear and even though you are awake, there is no need to get up just yet. You read the Sunday newspaper and no one frowns if you only concentrate on the comics and lifestyle section. Brunch was invented for a Sunday, when you can laze over a meal without feeling guilty and feel your whole body de-stress bit by bit. Or at least that’s how it is for me.

This last Sunday, we woke up late and decided to head to Cafe Madras, because it was nearby and after a year in Paris, I had a strong urge to rekindle my love affair with a South Indian breakfast. But it was not to be as we eyed the large crowd waiting outside the cafe and drove around in circles looking for parking. If there is anything that can destroy the leisurely feeling of a Sunday morning, it is the daunting prospect of waiting for your brunch while worrying that your car might be towed away. So we turned around and headed towards town, which we knew would be blissfully uncrowded on a Sunday.

I had wanted to check out Le Pain Quotidien for a while now and this seemed like the perfect opportunity. As soon as as I saw the bougainvillea-framed entrance and walked in to the smell of freshly baked bread, I knew we’d made the right choice. The interior reflected the warmth and decor that LPQ displays worldwide and having eaten at their cafes several times in Toronto and Paris, I felt instantly at home. The warm wood finish, the inviting communal table, daily specials written on the blackboard – everything felt instantly familiar. However, unlike other chain establishments, nothing seemed forced or gimmicky. Even the servers were cheerful and nice in a way that made you feel they meant it, instead of reciting welcome spiels by rote.

We began with coffee (my brain doesn’t switch to full gear until the first cup) and my cappuccino came with perfectly frothy milk, but unlike some places, it wasn’t so milky that you wonder where the coffee is. The complimentary serving of crisp biscotti was much appreciated and I was happy to see my friend immediately dunk his into my coffee. (My biscut-dipping habit – a leftover from ParleG-dunked-into-chai days – always brings amused stares elsewhere.) Meal off to a good start, we perused the menu, which consists of a good selection of brunch items. Torn between a choice of waffles, quiches and tartines (open-face sandwiches), we finally settled on a brioche french toast and the day’s breakfast special of eggs benedict.

The french toast arrived golden and moist, set with custard that was not too eggy or sweet – just the way I like it. The bananas roasted in their skin made a nice addition. But the eggs benedict stole the show – the whites were nicely set and the yolks oozed out lusciously when the eggs were cut – the sign of a perfectly poached egg made even better when accompanied with the toasted fresh bread, salty ham and tangy Hollandaise. The eggs could have done with a little salt and pepper, a minor gripe that the fresh mills on the table instantly solved. The servers were around to ask us if we had a nice meal, helpful but not hovering.

The sight of the breads – arranged in their round and flour-dusted glory – had made my heart sing as I entered. So it was natural that I should want to buy one on the way out. But I was told that I’d have to wait for 15 minutes as these breads were “not fresh enough” – a gesture that I appreciated from a place called “the daily bread”. I had to try something else, but the croissants looked woefully awry. (A friend whose judgement I trust had already warned me away from them.) Although none of the desserts really tempted, we settled on a chocolate mousse cake and a lemon tart for takeaway. Well, appearances can be deceptive because the lemon tart had a buttery crust and was filled with creamy lemon curd that was light and fresh, not cloying. The cake was a little on the dense side and could have been better, but it was saved by the dark chocolate that was not too sweet.

All in all, brunch at LPQ was a warm and comforting experience – just as brunch should be. I want to go back to try the lunch offerings, but for that day, I was immensely satisfied. As we left, I could not help but smile at their ‘bread time stories’ – if you haven’t already, be sure to pick it up the next time you go. With the adorable story by my bed (signed and dated by me and my friend as a souvenir of a lazy Sunday well spent) and this view of my beloved city, I closed my day with a light heart and a contented sigh. I had come home.

I open the window on my blog dashboard to type in my words and sometimes the words fail me. They seem tiny, insignificant in a world of revered proficiency and untold chaos. I’ve opened and closed this window several times in the past few days, and weeks, and months. Sometimes, the exhaustion takes over, sometimes there is no inspiration, but many a time it is a feeling that these words don’t matter. I’m not changing the world, or shaping a life. How does it matter? And I’m sure that there are others out there who have the same feeling. I’m not talking of just bloggers, I’m talking about people – the fear of being insignificant, it grips us all at one time or the other.

This post was not supposed to turn out this way, but sometimes when you’re alone during the holidays, the cheer can seem a bit forced. It’s possible to feel lonely in a crowd. If you’re out there, that one solitary person hanging back from the party, the one with the bruised heart and broken smile, assailed with doubts or fear, looking for someone to be genuinely kind without a reason, I don’t know if my words will find their way to you, they probably won’t, but know that you matter. You matter because you are who you are, and you do what you do, and nobody else out there is quite like you.

No man is an island, and it is our connections to the ones we love that bring us hope and comfort. But also have the strength to have faith in yourself. Find the hope and comfort in who you are, and what you do. And this holiday season, take the time out from all the holiday entertaining and shopping and gifting, not to change the world, but to really look. And listen. Are you missing the things around you? A kind gesture, a child’s glee, a lonely smile?

Be kind. To others, but also to yourself. Find the pleasure in the simple things.

Like coming home to a mysterious package that turns out to be a surprise gift of books from my cousin. Or finding out that I’m an aunt, and there is now one more person in the world who is irrevocably linked to me and who I have never seen but already love. Or opening the kitchen door to the lingering aroma of chocolate and taking pride in knowing that this is something I created with my own hands. Today, I did not change the world. But I made chocolate cake. And made the people who I shared it with smile. And sometimes that is enough.

Happy Holidays!

Raspberry-Laced Chocolate Cake
This cake is really moist and delicate and enough to satisfy a chocolate craving without any glaze or icing. But the true genius of this recipe from Alice Medrich is that the raspberry is laced through the cake, the puree mixed in the batter itself. The balance between the two flavors is perfect, without one overpowering the other. Serve with creme fraiche and fresh raspberries for a dainty plate or enjoy a slice plain with your coffee and favorite book for the ultimate simple pleasure in holiday comfort.
Recipe adapted from Bittersweet by Alice Medrich

1 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 cup Dutch-process cocoa powder
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 cup seedless raspberry puree, at room temperature (from frozen unsweetened or fresh raspberries)
3 tablespoons rum
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
3 large eggs, at room temperature
10 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
1 cup sugar

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Butter a 6-cup tube pan (alternatively, you can use 2 loaf pans, or a muffin tin with paper liners).
2. Sift together the flour, cocoa powder, baking powder and baking soda and set aside.
3. Combine the raspberry puree, rum and vanilla extract in a small bowl and set aside.
4. Break the eggs in another small bowl and mix together just until the whites and yolks are combined.
5. In a medium bowl, beat the butter with an electric mixer at medium speed until it is creamy. Add the sugar in a steady stream, and continue beating, at medium speed with a heavy-duty mixer or at high speed with a hand-held mixer until light and fluffy, 4-5 minutes.
6. Add the eggs gradually in a slow stream and continue beating for 2-3 minutes.
7. Stop the mixer and add one-third of the flour mixture beating at low speed only until the flour is incorporated. Follow with half the raspberry mixture again beating only until it is incorporated. Continue with half the remaining flour, followed by all the remaining raspberry puree and ending with the remaining flour. Each time, beat at low speed only until incorporated.
8. Scrape the batter into your preferred pan, and bake until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out dry, 40-45 minutes for the tube pan, 30-35 minutes for the loaf pans, 20 minutes for the muffin tin.
9. Let the cake cool on a rack for 10 minutes.
10. The cake can be wrapped well and kept at room-temperature for 4-5 days or frozen for up to 3 months. Serve with creme fraiche and fresh raspberries if desired. You can also sift icing sugar with a fine-mesh sieve over the cake before serving.

If like me, you have a love and passion for food and have always dreamed of a place where the best ingredients are put in the hands of the best artisans to make some of the best things you’ve ever tasted, then Paris is that dream come true. And I’m not talking of just fancy restaurants with Michelin starred chefs. I’m talking of walking into a street market and being inspired by the fresh produce, of being tempted into entering a small boulangerie by the smell of bread straight out of the oven, of opening a carefully wrapped box to slowly savor the exquisite sweet treat inside. At every corner, at every turn, this city entices you with its culinary prowess. Here then is my list of 10 delicious things that you must not miss when you are in Paris.

1. Macarons

More than anything else, the macaron has come to symbolize the Paris pastry scene. Simple in concept – two biscuits sandwiched together with ganache, the creativity and imagination of the city’s pastry geniuses takes what is essentially a cookie to a whole new level. And the best place to try them is at Pierre Hermé. Very few places stand up to the intense hype that surround them, but this one lives up to every expectation. The classics like the salted butter caramel will always reign but don’t leave without trying their ever-changing inventive flavors (chocolate and foie gras anyone?). I love their signature Ispahan (rose, raspberry and litchi) and in summer, the macaron ice cream sandwiches are the perfect treat. Other great places for macarons are Carette (I might be biased since I currently work there but don’t take my word for it – their chocolate macarons were voted second best in Paris), Aoki (try the Japanese inspired flavors) and Ladurée (another favorite, but I think this place is resting on its laurels – the macarons are the only thing I like here).

2. Hot Chocolate

When there is a nip in the air, there is nothing better than a cup of hot chocolate to ward off the chill or the blues. The true Parisian hot chocolate is rich and intense and nothing like the weak instant-powder drinks served almost everywhere else. My favourite place (and this has been supported by everyone I’ve taken there) is a charming cafe near the Seine called L’Ebouillante. The hot chocolate comes in a big bowl – and it is literally that – hot chocolate. To this you add milk as per your preference, so you can make it as rich as you want. Other favorites are Jacques Genin (a gorgeous chocolate store) and Angelina (I take people there more for the overall experience than the hot chocolate itself).

3. Bread

I didn’t know how much I loved bread until I came to Paris – golden baguettes with crisp crusts and airy interiors, loaves studded with cereal and nuts that need no further embellishment, bread that is baked absolutely fresh every single day. I have seen Parisians, who hate to wait for anything – even traffic lights, lining up patiently at boulangeries for their daily bread. The Parisian walking with a baguette under his arm is not a cliché – they are everywhere. I have seen businessmen in designer suits and even joggers with this quintessential Parisian accessory under their arm. My favorites are the pain aux céréales and the walnut bread from Eric Kayser – I could eat these for breakfast every single day and often do. Gontran Cherrier in Montmartre is another exceptional boulangerie – besides the usual suspects, you’ll find breads in a rainbow of colors – paprika red, curry yellow, squid-ink black. Other great loaves are at: 134 RDT, Du Pain et Des Idées and Poilâne.

4. Cheese

Having grown up with yellow slices of processed cheese, the cheese in Paris is a revelation. And the fromageries offer a smorgasbord of soft, hard, ripe, fresh, aged cheeses from all over France. The only problem is deciding which one you’ll buy, one that is solved simply by buying a small portion of all the ones you want to taste. Some places even have cheese plates ready with a selection. One of my favorite stores is La Fermette on the market street of Rue Montorgueil but I might be biased because this was my first cheese store in Paris and the people there are always helpful. Other great shops include Fromagerie Quatrehomme, Laurent Dubois and Pascal Beillevaire.

5. Butter

Any ordinary supermarket in Paris will offer you at least 10 different kinds of butter of which 7 will probably be better than the average butter you find anywhere else. But once you taste the hand churned Bordier butter, I doubt if you’ll be able to go back to the old stuff. I have to resist buying this butter because I know I won’t be able to stop eating it. (My favorite is the demi-sel with flakes of salt slathered over Eric Kayser’s walnut bread.) There is also butter with seaweed, yuzu and Piment d’Espelette. You can find this butter at La Grande Epicerie and various fromageries (including Fromagerie Hisada). The creamy butter produced by fromagerie Pascal Beillevaire is pretty incredible too.

6. Croissants

The French take their croissants seriously and there is an entire set of guidelines to what makes a good croissant. I always look out for a plump croissant with a golden exterior and with the unmistakable smell of good butter. (Avoid croissants made with margarine – indicated by the extreme crescent shape with the ends pulled inwards – a requirement I learnt at pastry school.) Also, in my book, chewy – bad, flaky – good. It’s not a good croissant if you can eat it neatly. Go early – most stores will run out of fresh croissants by 11 am. My favorite is from Pierre Hermé. (Is there nothing this guy cannot do well?) Other favorites include Carette (I roll these croissants every day since I work there! I also know how much good butter goes into them.), Gérard Mulot and Blé Sucré.

7. Crêpes

Who can resist a hot crêpe straight off the griddle, bubbling with melting cheese or dripping with Nutella, wrapped in a paper cone to be eaten on the go and the closest thing to street food that the Parisians have. There are a number of street crêperies strewn around the city for a convenient snack, but the good ones will always make your crêpes to order instead of reheating them from a stack. My favorite sit-down place is Little Breizh where you’ll find crisp buckwheat galettes (my favorite combination is ham, cheese and egg) and tender sweet crêpes. A close second is Breizh Cafe in the Marais (reservations highly recommended, but they now have an epicerie next door where you can get crêpes to go). One of my other favorites is a small market stall inside Le Marché des Enfants Rouges, the oldest covered market in Paris. This is where I had my first crêpe in Paris and if you’re lucky, the charming old man making the crêpes will offer you a chouquette (choux pastry with pearl sugar) on the house. (No luck if you’re a guy, only for the beautiful ladies, he says.)

8. Chocolate

Caramel. Cafe. Cinnamon. Orange, Mint. Grapefruit. Pepper. Tea… Did you know chocolate came in so many flavors? The best place to try chocolates in Paris is at Jacques Genin. The first time I went looking for the store, I passed by it twice because it is so exquisitely laid out that both times, I subconsciously registered it as a jewelry store. Only when you look down at the glass cases with the tiny exquisite creations do you realize that this is a chocolate lovers’ dream come true. (In addition to the chocolates, don’t miss the caramels. hot chocolate or the Paris Brest, which are some of the best in Paris.) Another great for chocolate is Patrick Roger – I love his caramels and praline and and his sculptures belong in a gallery. (I sometimes go over to the website just to ogle at the art.)

9. Falafel

I never thought I would list falafel as something you should try when you come to Paris, but thanks to the shops in the Jewish neighborhood of Rue des Rosiers, the falafel is here to stay. And when you’re looking for a cheap, hot, spicy lunch you can only be grateful for this fact. The stores on this street remind me of a story I read as a child. 3 brothers opened their stores on the same street – the oldest called it “the best store in the universe”, the second “the best store in the world”, but the youngest (and as these stories go, the wisest) did them one better and named his “the best store on this street”. If you believe all the hype, then L’As du Fallafel is the best place to go. But I believe their standards are slipping and in any case, I refuse to wait for half an hour for a falafel. I prefer Chez H’anna just down the street where everything tastes just a little fresher and the grilled aubergines on top are the icing on the cake (and I don’t even like aubergine). But my favorite has to be Maoz – yes I know it’s a chain, but when you can see all the fresh ingredients in front of you and can then make your sandwich as per your liking, there really is nothing better than that.

10. Madeleines

Tiny little bites of tender buttery goodness – you shouldn’t leave without trying madeleines in Paris. And the best are at the charming Blé Sucré. This little bakery might be out of the usual tourist zones, but it’s well worth the trip. The store has reasonable prices and some great products, but the madeleines are what I go there for. Buy a bag and if the weather is good, the park across the street makes a great place to feast on these tiny treats. Another place that I’m a little hesitant to add to this list is Carette because I’ve never really bought the madeleines there. But whenever we make them, if the chef is not satisfied (sometimes the hump is just a little bit smaller than it should be), we get to take the entire batch home. And if the rejected ones taste so good, I only wonder how good the batches they actually sell are.

Other posts you may like:
Food Lovers’ Paris: 1st Arrondisement
Paris: On the Hot Chocolate Trail

There are certain nights that will always live with you, when everything comes together in a magical kaleidoscope of events that are unplanned and therefore much more special in their happening. For me, Paris Nuit Blanche 2012 was one such night. Nuit Blanche literally translate to the white night – an annual celebration of art and culture on the first Saturday of October when galleries, museums, town halls, even building terraces are open to the public all night. I’d penciled in the date in my calendar a month ahead, but it did not have an auspicious beginning. The weather forecast showed that it would be raining all night, and a friend who had promised to accompany me canceled at the last minute. (He claims sickness, I say hangover.) I left the warmth of my house reluctantly only to have to return 10 minutes later because I’d forgotten my metro pass. As I said, not an auspicious start.

The first thing that lifted my spirits was the fountain near my apartment where the street meets the bustling avenue de l’Opéra. Called Fontaine du Théâtre Français, I have hurried by it everyday on my way to school or work barely giving it a glance. But that night, you had to notice it as it shimmered and danced under the lights, playfully announcing that even it knew that this was going to be a special night.

I crossed over to the Comédie-Française and into the courtyard that tourists so often miss in their rush to get to the Louvre. Sure enough, the courtyard was almost empty, the contemporary columns standing silently in wait for the next theater rush.

I walked out to a scene that seemed straight out of Midnight in Paris – the rain drizzling down softening the warm lights spilling out of the cafes, reflected in the soaked sidewalks, as couples walked by lost in the universe under their shared umbrellas. I have had images of a romantic Paris fed to me all my life through movies, books, pictures but here was the cliché coming to life in front of my eyes. This was a lovers’ Paris meant for sweet nothings and first kisses and practiced seductions.

I have a confession to make – as Google Maps informs me, I stay at exactly 6 minutes walking distance from the Louvre and yet, I have not been inside in the last 10 months. But I also know that the best time to visit the courtyard is late at night when the tourists have gone home and the pyramids are lit up and if you look up at the stately palace, you can picture a time when it was a royal residence and kings and queens strolled down its halls.

Today the courtyard was ablaze with lights and art installations by Hervé Di Rosa. There were multiple caravans, one filled with futuristic toys, another (rather pretentiously) called “archaeology of childhood” and they were interesting enough.

But the image that stays with me was through the big windows of the closed museum – a solitary worker in blue surrounded by mighty sculptures and the grandeur of the hall itself cleaning up for the night.

My next stop was the Centre Georges Pompidou, boasting a futuristic architecture that could not have been more different from the dignified elegance of the Louvre. While the Louvre stands by watching solemnly as the millions scurry by, the Pompidou screams “Look at me”.

The complex was a flurry of activity with people dancing, swaying, head-banging as the DJs churned out pulsing rhythms. The vibrations traveled up my feet and set them tapping on their own accord. The people living in the apartment building right across had the best deal as they threw open their windows and joined the huge party happening below.

They say the best things come when you least expect them. As I reluctantly left the happy crowd of people to go looking for some food, I passed the Musée des Archives in the Marais. I hadn’t known anything was happening there, but I joined the crowd going in. I smiled and wished “Bonsoir!” to the stern-looking guard checking my bag and then looked up to a sight that had my jaw dropping.

The entire museum was beautifully lit up, which by now I had got used to, but someone had the genius idea of releasing thousands of soap bubbles in the front courtyard, the kind that kids play with. The translucent balls floated up, catching and diffusing the lights, essentially turning the entire space into a kind of fairyland that you had to see to believe. The kid in me, the one that still likes ferris wheels and cotton candy and lego, was enchanted and everyone around seemed to share my delight as laughter, pure and simple, rung out into the night. This was joie de vivre at its very best.

My favorite crepes place in the Marais was too crowded as I’d expected, so I joined the people walking the streets with a takeout crepe, hot and melting with butter, in my hands. The streets that would usually have been deserted at this late hour were alive, even shop windows looked like they were just waiting for you to walk in and inspect their proudly displayed wares. The crepes should have satisfied me, but who can resist the smell of fresh and hot falafel on a rainy night.

I walked towards the river happily munching on my falafel, passing one of my favorite corners in Paris, now ghostly in the night. Walking along the river is the thing I love doing most in Paris and I had saved the best for the last.

The lights glinted and beckoned, boats passed by, music and revelry were in the air. Lovers kissed, people danced and children skipped along the river’s edge. I reckon I added to their amusement as I tried to balance an umbrella while bending in all directions trying to take a good picture in the rain without a tripod. I was quite proud of myself for pulling it off.

I paid homage to the Notre Dame from my favorite viewpoint – standing on the tiny bridge behind it. From here walking on the left bank, you can truly appreciate the grace of its flying buttresses and the elegance of its rose window.

I then made my way to the last stop for the night. The obelisk at Concorde stood proud and tall as traffic whirled by. The Eiffel had unfortunately gone to bed signaling it was time for me to listen to my tired feet and head home.

You’d never know it was 3 am because it seemed like rush-hour in the metro. The only difference was that people (in Paris!) were smiling at each other. Copious amounts of alcohol would seem like the cynics’ reason for this sudden warmth, but as I looked at the people around me – old, young, Parisians, tourists, in designer clothes and hand-me-downs, I’d like to believe that like me they too had experienced something special – a magical night they would never forget.

If you are new to Paris, it’s good to remember that the city is neatly divided into 20 arrondisements (administrative districts), which are indicated by the last 2 digits of a postal code and also on the street signs, which makes it a little bit easier to get a general sense of direction and know where you are. When my cousin visited me in Paris this summer, I bought a map of the city by arrondisement (which you should do if you’re visiting) and painstakingly marked all the good places to eat since I would be at work during the day. It was a great idea; only, she took one look at it and said “Umm, I can’t read maps.” It all worked out in the end. (I gave her directions she understood like “Take the left at Zara, and then go straight until you hit H&M…”) But since I get asked for recommendations to eat in Paris, I thought that this would help others out there. So here it is, Paris for foodies broken down by arrondisement. Bon Appetit!

Food Lovers’ Paris – 1st Arrondisment Map

Open in Google Maps

The * indicates the degree of my affinity to a place, some are favorites and others are great options if you are in the neighborhood. Note that these are purely subjective and based on my likes and dislikes.
Most of the places on this list are moderately priced unless otherwise noted.

Restaurants, Cafes, etc.

Angelina ***
The mecca for lovers of hot chocolate, people come from all over the world to have a taste of the rich chocolat chaud served with a flourish in elegant surroundings. The complete experience at Angelina, which is as Parisian as they come, is as important as the hot chocolate itself (which I find a little too rich actually). It’s like a special treat that you wait for in anticipation and unwrap slowly, savoring each moment. The pastries can be a hit-and-miss – I like the ‘Tartelette Eva’ (dark chocolate and raspberry ganache) and ‘Carla’ (candied chestnut mousse, blueberry jelly), and I’ve never tried the food there. If I were you, I’d go for the hot chocolate and save my euros for elsewhere.
226 Rue de Rivoli, 75001 Paris
Metro: Tuileries/Concorde
01 42 60 82 00
Website

L’Ecume St. Honore **
A charming poissonnerie (fish shop) near Place du Marché Saint-Honoré that also has seating where you can enjoy some fresh oysters and a glass of wine. The staff is super-friendly – my request to click a few pictures was met with a smiling “Avec plaisir! (With pleasure!)”
6 Rue du Marché Saint-Honoré 75001 Paris, France
Metro: Tuileries/Pyramides
01 42 61 93 87

Le Garde Robe **
A small friendly wine bar near the Louvre serving some excellent natural wines. You can go for a pre-dinner drink, but very often I find I’m having too much of a good time to move and make a meal of their cheese and charcuterie plates. The mixed platter is a great way to taste a great selection of cheese and well cured meat. Ask the staff for wine recommendations, they are happy to help.
41 Rue de l’Arbre Sec 75001 Paris, France
Metro: Louvre-Rivoli/Les Halles
01 49 26 90 60

Izakaya Issé **
There is no dearth of Japanese places near Rue St. Anne, but this one is my favorite. It advertises itself as a bistro à saké and serves Japanese-style tapas and tempura to go with your drink. But the 12-18€ lunch menu is what I always go here for. The bowl of donburi, the Japanese dish of a bowl of rice topped with meat, fish or vegetables, is my idea of comfort food and the version at Issé is beyond reproach. I usually get the one with pork and the meat literally melts in your mouth. Even the rice is well cooked and soaks up the sweet-and-salty sauce from the meat. The small selection of desserts include green tea crème brûlée and sesame ice cream.
45 Rue de Richelieu, 75001 Paris, France
Metro: Pyramides/Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre
01 42 96 26 60
Website

Jantchi *
My neighborhood restaurant when I’m craving some Korean food. The bibimpap comes laden with rice, meat and assorted pickled vegetables. I usually get takeout after a long day to eat in comfort at home, but sometimes I enviously eye the patrons digging into their soups and hot plates, delicately eating their kimchi with chopsticks. The restaurant is usually crowded, a good sign, so go early.
6 Rue Thérèse 75001 Paris, France
Metro: Pyramides/Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre
01 40 15 91 07

Juveniles *
This is a cozy wine bar run by a Scotsman, a blink-and-miss-it kind of place that I had walked by several times before realizing it was there. But when I did discover it, I was grateful because it has just the right feel of the neighborhood wine bar, where you drop in for a nice glass of wine and simple, good food. It offers wines from France, Italy, Australia and the wine list changes regularly. The place also double as a wine shop where you can buy bottles to go.
47 Rue de Richelieu 75001 Paris, France
Metro: Pyramides/Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre
01 42 97 46 49

Kunitoraya *
You’ll easily recognize this place by the long line that snakes outside it. I love to go here on a cold rainy day for a bowl of udon, thick house-made noodles in a satisfying hot broth topped with pork, vegetables, poultry or fish. The udon with tempura-fried shrimp or minced pork are my favorites. Living nearby, I have the luxury of going in the off-hours when there is no line, and I suggest you do the same. If it is donburi you want however, I think the one at Issé is much better. (There is also another higher end Kunitoraya that has opened nearby – I have not yet been to this one.)
39 Rue Sainte-Anne 75001 Paris, France (Kunitoraya 2 – 5 rue Villedo 75001 Paris)
Metro: Pyramides/Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre
01 47 03 33 65
Website

La Mousson **
I never thought I’d find Cambodian food in Paris, but there it was just a few steps from my apartment. This place is nothing much to look at, and chances are you’d walk right by without a second glance. But that would be a mistake, because this place serves some truly good food from the Khmer. Try the Amok (stuffed fish with coconut milk and Cambodian spices) and the scallops with fried ginger. The staff are really kind, the room is small but cozy and the paper maché cranes floating from the ceiling lend a touch of whimsy. Prices are a little higher than you would find in Chinatown, but for the quality of the food, I think it’s worth it.
9 Rue Thérèse 75001 Paris, France
Metro: Pyramides/Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre
01 42 60 59 46
Website

Le Pain Quotidien *
Yes, it’s a chain but the very fact that they have so many locations makes it a good stop for breakfast, lunch or brunch. Most of their cafes are big and bright, usually with outdoor seating and the communal wooden tables give it a friendly feel . Since the name of their brand is based on bread, it’s not surprising that they do it really well and I love the tiny pots of jam that they serve with it. They serve tartines (open faced sandwiches), big salads and some good coffee. It’s also a great place to pick up a sandwich and a cookie and head for a picnic to the Jardin des Tuleries or Palais Royal.
18, Place Marché St Honoré, 75001 Paris, France
01 42 96 31 70
Metro: Tuileries/Pyramides
5 Rue des Petits Champs, 75001 Paris, France
01 42 60 15 24
Metro: Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre/Pyramides
Website

Le Rubis **
Le Rubis, with its wine barrels doubling as tables outside, lined with red-and-white checkered cloth around which Parisian smoked and enjoyed a glass of wine, is exactly what I’d imagined a Parisian wine bar to be like. I discovered this place last winter when I was walking around looking for a decent cup of coffee (which is surprisingly difficult to find in this city overrun with cafes). Not only did I get a good café noisette, but also found a place I would return to again to enjoy the hearty home-style cooking and a glass (or several) of wine in boisterous and unpretentious surroundings.
10 Rue du Marché Saint-Honoré 75001 Paris, France
01 42 61 03 34
Metro: Tuileries/Pyramides

Spring ***
Pages and pages have been written about this restaurant, which is frequently on everyone’s “best restaurant” list, with its American chef, innovative cuisine that changes with the seasons and market-fresh menu. I can’t add to it because, umm, I haven’t actually been there (even though two of my friends from school are actually completing their stage there). The almost-impossible-to-snare reservation is one of the big reasons, but another is that the more moderately priced lunch menu that I can afford is served only on weekdays when I’m at work. Come to think of it, I’ll get free in January, and I’m sure if I start now I’ll be able to get a table by then! (The reason this restaurant is included here even though I haven’t actually been there is that a simple google search will let you know why it’s on my personal ‘must-try-before-I-leave-Paris’ list.)
6 Rue Bailleul 75001 Paris, France
Metro: Louvre-Rivoli/Les Halles
01 45 96 05 72
Website

Le Stube *
Frankfurters, pretzels, strudels and currywurst near the Louvre. At this French-German bakery/cafe, there are also fresh salads, savory tarts and cold plates with fresh cream cheese and Black Forest smoked ham. But don’t leave without tasting their delectable pastries – apple strudel, a chocolate and spice Sachertorte, Linzertorte with raspberry marmalade, and Berlinoise with fromage blanc, raisins, lemon and almonds. A great place for a quick lunch or picnic food near the Palais-Royal.
31 Rue de Richelieu 75001 Paris, France
Metro: Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre/Pyramides
01 42 60 09 85
Website

Cafe Verlet **
Step into this cafe and you are greeted with sacks overflowing with coffee beans and the rich earthy aroma of fresh brewed coffee. I have already highlighted how difficult it is to find good coffee in Paris, but this place does not disappoint. You can buy single origin coffee beans from America, Asia or Africa or the house blends (the Haute Mer is my favorite so far), whole or ground for your preferred brewing method. Or head to the salon upstairs, grab a coveted seat by the window, pick your coffee beans and they will grind and brew your drink right there. I sometimes get the café viennois as a special treat – it comes topped high with whipped cream. They also have a small lunch menu and their desserts come from Stohrer, but I find it too expensive for what I get, so I just stick to the coffee, which is all the pleasure I need.
256 Rue Saint-Honoré 75001 Paris, France
Metro: Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre/Tuileries
01 42 60 67 39
Website

Willi’s Wine Bar **
This wine bar, established in 1980, is a Paris institution and an open secret that no one wants to quite give away yet. This place has great food, a great wine list and something so many newcomers pay a lot of money for but don’t quite achieve – character. Stop by for a glass of wine or one of their reasonably priced menus (weekday lunch at the bar counter with a glass of wine is €15.90). The bottle art posters on the wall can be bought online and make for a great (if slightly expensive) souvenir of your experience.
13 Rue des Petits Champs 75001 Paris, France
Metro: Pyramides/Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre/Bourse
01 42 61 05 09
Website

Bakeries, Pastry Shops, etc.

Aki *
Everyone in Paris has a neighborhood boulangerie, which they skip down to get their daily baguette and croissant. This is mine. That it also happens to be a French-Japanese bakery is an incidental fact that I was surprised and delighted by. In addition to the usual French bakery fare, you’ll find brioche with swirls of matcha and red bean paste, green tea madeleines and yuzu eclairs. An outdoor seat on the corner of rue St. Anne makes for some fabulous people watching.
11 Rue Sainte-Anne 75001 Paris, France
Metro: Pyramides/Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre
01 42 97 54 27

Eric Kayser ***
Eric Kayser has built his empire (15 stores in Paris and many more around the world with a new store in New York) on bread and what fabulous bread it is! From the crispy and light baguette to the crunchy pain aux cereales to my absolute favorite, the pain aux noix (walnut bread). Honestly, I’m addicted to this bread – I have it plain, toasted, with butter, jam, nutella, cheese, tapenade… you get the drift. I also like their chocolate chip cookies (yes, great American-style cookies in France). They also have pastries, salads, quiches, but I go there mainly for, as you may have guessed by now, the bread.
33 Rue Danielle Casanova 75001 Paris, France
Metro: Pyramides/Tuileries
01 42 97 59 29
Website

Hugo & Victor **
At this small patisserie beside Place du Marché Saint-Honoré, pastry is art with each creation having its own special place and spotlight. The pastries shine with the skill and creativity of the creators. While the classic flavors of chocolate, caramel and vanilla are present all year around, each season showcases a play on new flavors (this season you’ll find figs, almond, cherry plum, kaffir lime and pear). The macarons, while not as famous as those at Pierre Hermé, are excellent too.
7 rue Gomboust 75001 Paris
Metro: Pyramides/Tuileries
01 42 96 10 20
Website

Jean Paul Hevin *
This is a decadent chocolate boutique on rue St. Honore – it is almost impossible to choose from the wide collection – should you go with the classics like dark chocolate, praline, coffee or be more adventurous and try the smoked chinese tea or cheese flavored chocolate apéritifs. (Note that I have sometimes found the service here cold and snooty.) There is a salon de thé upstairs where you can enjoy a cup of hot chocolate or pastries. Tip: They have wi-fi in the salon upstairs.
231 Rue Saint-Honoré 75001 Paris, France
Metro: Tuileries
01 55 35 35 96
Website

La Maison du Chocolat *
If you get tired of strolling the Louvre, head down to the Carrousel (the underground shopping mall below the Louvre), step into this house of chocolate and inhale the rich scent. The truffles, pralines and bonbons are tempting, but what I usually get is the textbook perfect eclair or the oversize chocolate macaron.
99 Rue de Rivoli 75001 Paris, France
01 42 97 13 50
Website

Pierre Hermé ***
The name needs no introduction – for many food lovers, Pierre Hermé is the first stop for a box of macarons. And unlike so many other things, they live up to the expectation. The biscuit is the perfect texture and the filling not too sweet. The classics like the salted butter caramel will always reign but don’t leave without trying their ever-changing inventive flavors. (My recent favorite is the Mosaic – pistachio, ceylon cinnamon & morello cherries.) They are not famous for their ice cream, but they should be. I’m especially in love with their ice cram sandwiches. (That’s how you make a macaron better!) Choose one from their amazing flavors (red berry sorbet & mint, orange & passion fruit, the famous ispahan – rose, litchi & raspberry) and enjoy your sweet treat in the nearby Jardin des Tuileries. Note that this location does not sell pastries, primarily only macarons, chocolate and ice cream.
4 rue Cambon 75001 Paris, France
Metro: Concorde
01 43 54 47 77
Website

Shops

E. Dehillerin **
You can get lost for days in here without coming up for air. A warehouse of a store, E. Dehillerin has been around for almost 200 years! You can find every kind of kitchen utensil, tool, equipment you could possibly imagine here. It can be a little intimidating and frankly, mind boggling if you don’t really know what you want. The store is geared more towards professional chefs, but it’s still fun to poke around and especially ogle their gorgeous copperware (my student budget forces me to just admire, you can buy as well). Prices are not listed on individual items but in a big catalogue; hey, it wouldn’t be Paris if it wasn’t complicated.
18 Rue Coquillière 75001 Paris, France
Metro: Les Halles
01 42 36 53 13
Website

Fromagerie Hisada **
My neighborhood fromagerie, this is a gorgeous little store. I’ve bought some fabulous goat cheeses from here, but don’t just stop there. They have a friendly staff, who are eager to help you choose from the small but great selection. They also stock the famous Bordier butter, which if you haven’t tried yet, you must! Soon. I also like their (French style) yuzu cheesecake, which makes for a delicious teatime snack. The shop has a tasting salon and also creates menus revolving around their cheese.
47 rue de Richelieu 75001 Paris, France
Metro: Pyramides/Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre
01 42 60 78 48
Website

Mora ***
A baker’s dream come true – I try to never enter this store if I have any significant amount of money on me (or even the 10 euros that I may have to do my laundry). Because heaven knows, I’m going to spend it. On beautiful molds or whisks or spatulas or cookbooks… Although the store has things for the entire kitchen (with beautiful Staub cookware as well), the focus is definitely more towards baking and chocolate. This store will make you want to bake. Since this is Paris, it seems fairly apt.
13 Rue Montmartre 75001 Paris, France
Metro: Les Halles
01 45 08 19 24

Admittedly, no one comes to Paris to eat frankfurters. But if you find yourself outside the Louvre (which you probably will if you’re visiting Paris) and depleted of all energy, or strolling the gardens at the Palais Royal and in need of a snack, stop by Le Stube on Rue de Richelieu. You’ll be greeted with a kind smile and a visual feast of hearty cakes and tarts. The previous owners of Le Stübli gave up the business to “travel, learn and find new inspiration” and the result is this charming cafe where they intend to promote what they call ‘snack’issime’.

Their French-German heritage is reflected in the menu headed by “The Sausage”. My favorite is the Frankfurter in a crisp baguette (you can also have it in a regular bun, but in France why would you?) with simmered onions and their mustard specialty. I’m not a great fan of mustard, but I love this one; it’s sharp without being pungent and has a sweet undertone.

You can also feast on the Currywurst, which I had not heard of before but have been thoroughly educated on by now. Currywurst, if you don’t know, is an iconic German dish of fried sausage slices in a tomato-based sauce sprinkled with curry! If you don’t believe its iconic status, then you should know that there is an entire museum called the Deutsches Currywurst Museum dedicated to it in Berlin. (The Germans really do take their sausage seriously! Another fun fact I discovered: apparently, 800 million currywurst are devoured in Germany every year!)

Other German dishes you’ll find at Le Stube are strudels, pretzels and the sauerkraut as well as the German beer Becks. If that’s not for you, there are also fresh salads, savory tarts and cold plates with fresh cream cheese and Black Forest smoked ham. But don’t leave without tasting their delectable pastries – apple strudel, a chocolate and spice Sachertorte, Linzertorte with hazelnuts and raspberry marmalade, and Black Forest with morello cherries. My favorite is the Berlinoise with fromage blanc (a fresh creamy French cheese that makes a close cousin to the American cheesecake), raisins, lemon and almonds.

I’m usually shy about taking pictures in restaurants, but after a nice chat with the really friendly owner, I plucked up the courage to ask him if I could take a few pictures. (I didn’t mention that I wanted to write an article on them.) “Bien sûr! (Of course!)” he said and even proceeded to turn around a few tarts so I could get a good shot. That the entire conversation was conducted in French was of particular pride to me.

Another reason I like this place so much is that it is literally around the corner from where I live. A menu (set meal) here with a main, dessert and salad/drink (try the Cafe Viennois topped with whipped cream) will set you back by €11.50, a bargain in the 1st arrondisement. I wouldn’t cross Paris to visit, but if you’re in the neighborhood looking for a quick lunch or picnic food, drop in and you won’t be disappointed.

Le Stube
31, Rue de Richelieu 75001 Paris (Map)
01 42 60 09 85
Metro: Palais Royal – Musée du Louvre, Pyramides
Open: Monday from 10:00am to 3:30pm, Tuesday to Saturday from 10am to 10pm

When you are a stagiere (read, lowly intern) in the cuisine/pastry business, the days have a way of blending into each other. I woke up one day, and summer was over. Fall greeted me with a gust of icy wind as I opened the gate of my apartment building to walk out into the darkness – it was 5:30 am and I was on my way to work. People who say that everyone is rude in Paris have not encountered the men that sweep the streets at the crack of dawn and always greet me with a friendly ‘Bonjour’. It is something small that makes me smile every morning when all I want to do is crawl back into bed.

During the first few weeks of my stage I discovered muscles I had never known existed. My hands and arms were covered with cuts (they hadn’t even given me a knife yet!) and my legs with bruises from bumping into every surface imaginable. I remember my doctor handing me a list last year when I was diagnosed with a knee defect: “Don’t kneel, don’t squat, don’t climb the stairs as far as possible”. Ha! I’d like to see his face if ever sees me at work. The physical exhaustion was something I had mentally prepared myself for; it did not stop me from waking up with stiff muscles, groaning as I took every step and from sometimes falling asleep at 8pm, exhausted beyond belief. When one of my friends asked me how tough it was, I told her to stand and just stay there for the next 10-12 hours, then double that effort. I still have it easy being in pastry; I have friends in cuisine who are working 13-16 hours a day.

But slowly and steadily, you get used to the hard work. The end of the week is still a pain, but I find myself growing stronger every day. And I was lucky enough to find a place with kind people, who are interested in teaching. I work at Carette, a patisserie and salon de thé in the 16eme arrondisement, right next to the Eiffel. Every day as I make tarts or roll croissants, I learn something new. One of the simplest and most fundamental things is that there is a wrong and right (read, more efficient) way to do everything, from the way you apply an egg wash to the way you hold a mop. It is these little things that make a difference. And even though I make mistakes every day (my biggest – dropping an entire tray of macarons), my panicked face is usually met with “C’est pas grave” (it doesn’t matter) and a gentle admonition to be more careful the next time. (The entire first month, I kept waiting for the other shoe to drop.) And while there are some whose path I try to steer clear of, for the most part, my colleagues are amazing, happy-go-lucky people. (They sing in the kitchen, everyone greets you with a two-cheek-kiss-salut and the chef gets us coffee! The first time he asked me if I wanted some, I wondered if it was a trick question.)

When I first came to Paris and was looking for apartments, I was inclined to reject some based on their miniscule kitchens and lack of a proper oven. But my program coordinator told me that I’d be doing so much in the kitchen at work that I’d rarely have enough energy for anything elaborate at home. And for the most part, she was right. When all you want to do is sink into bed, the bowl of cereal or eggs for dinner start to look really attractive. But there are some times when you crave for something more. Weekends especially have a way of making me want to make something special. It is usually not fancy or elaborate, because you get enough of that at work, but something homely and comforting. My recent attempt was to hold on to the last of summer with these lemon blueberry scones.

Like so many other things, Enid Blyton introduced me to scones – they were usually among other treats weighing down a farm table or gracing a picnic blanket with a side helping of clotted cream. It is difficult to find a good scone in Paris, actually anywhere; so many of them are pale imitations, all dry and crumbly. The secret to these scones is ricotta, which lends them a moist richness – a happy accident I discovered when I was experimenting one day. These scones come out with the most tender crumb. The lemons give it a freshness and the blueberries are like little pools of jam. They are best had the day they are made, butter melting into the delicate crags. As fall graces us with its presence, you can swap out the lemon and blueberries for dried apples and cranberries, add toasted nuts or even cinnamon. Take one out warm from the oven, make a cup of tea and curl up with your favorite book. It’s enough to make me forget even the most tiring day.

Lemon-Blueberry Ricotta Scones
This recipe has been tested and is a Community Pick at Food52
Makes 8-10

1 large egg
1/2 cup cold buttermilk
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons finely grated lemon zest
1/2 cup fresh ricotta
2 cups all purpose flour
2 1/4 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
3 tablespoons sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
8 tablespoons /1 stick butter, very cold
1 cup blueberries
1/8-1/4 cup melted butter, for brushing

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper.
2. Whisk together the egg, buttermilk, lemon juice and lemon zest in a medium bowl until they are well combined.
3. Add the ricotta and whisk it in. It is okay if a few lumps remain.
4. In another large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, sugar and salt.
Dice the cold butter into small cubes. (You can place the butter in the freezer for 15-20 mins before in order to get it very cold.) Add the butter pieces to the flour and toss with a fork just until the butter is coated with flour.
5. Now using a pastry cutter or a fork, cut the butter into the flour until you have a mixture of pea-sized or slightly larger clumps of butter and flour. (The pea-size bits of butter in your dough are responsible for the flakiness of your crust – when the butter melts while baking, it creates an air pocket, which is inflated by the steam created when the liquid evaporates. Result – flaky scones. End of science lesson.)
6. Create a well in the middle of your flour mixture and add the liquid. Starting from the center, work the dry ingredients into the liquid by mixing gently with a fork until it all roughly comes together to form a wet, very sticky mixture. It is okay if there is a little flour at the bottom of your bowl. The main thing is to not overwork the dough. Gently fold in the blueberries with a rubber spatula taking care not to bruise them as far as possible.
7. Turn out the dough onto a well floured space and gently and shortly knead the dough. To do this, pat it down gently and put all the flour bits that were at the bottom of your bowl on top of the dough. Lift one end of the flattened dough and fold it in half over itself. Press it down again, put any bits on top and fold again. Give the dough 3-4 turns like this and it should come together. Don’t overwork the dough.
Finally, pat the dough down into a disk, about 1/2 inch thick. Cut the dough into 8 wedges like a pie. Or cut out rounds with a cookie cutter (2.5-3 inches); don’t twist the cookie cutter while cutting. (This prevents the scones from rising evenly.)
8. Transfer the wedges or rounds to the baking sheet and brush with the melted butter. Bake in the preheated oven for about 15-20 mins until the tops are golden brown. Let cool on a wire rack. These are best when eaten warm from the oven with butter/jam/clotted cream à la the Famous Five.

When I was growing up, french toast was a special weekend treat. My sister and I would cajole mom to whip us a batch and then eat our jealously guarded share while watching Sunday morning cartoons – there was always a fight over who would get the last slice. Only, this was probably not the french toast you grew up with, because it was a savory version that I now believe is common in South Asia. There were only three ingredients – eggs, salt and day-old bread that was fried till it was crisp and golden, to be eaten with ketchup. And this was always my definition of french toast. In fact, one of the first arguments my boyfriend and I had (although I’m absolutely sure he doesn’t remember it) was over french toast – he’d always had it sweet, and I could not possibly imagine why anyone would want to eat it that way.

This was before I was introduced to brioche. And pure maple syrup. And the sweet-and-salty contrast of crisp bacon. I was a convert (sorry Mom!). And while I still make the salty french toast when nostalgia strikes, I’m partial to the decadence of a sweet brioche french toast when the weekend comes calling. It is my favorite breakfast on a Saturday morning when the whole weekend stretches out in front of you full of possibilities. The best thing about it is that it does not require advance preparations or complicated shenanigans. It is simple enough to not break that lazy Saturday morning stride and luxurious enough to feel like a real treat.

Because of this very simplicity it demands that you use the best quality ingredients that you can. My favorite bread to use is a day-old brioche, but challah or a good country bread would work too. I like my slices relatively thick, the more to soak up all that eggy liquid. I flavor the milk only with vanilla, but you can try whatever catches your fancy – cinnamon, rum, orange zest. This version results in what all good french toasts should be – crispy on the outside and almost like a custard on the inside. Paired with pure maple syrup and crsip-fried bacon, it’s a breakfast fit for a great weekend.

Weekend French Toast

1 cup whole milk
4 eggs
1 tablespoon sugar
A pinch of salt
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
6-8 slices day-old brioche (or challah/good country bread, cut 1/2-3/4 inch thick)
Butter (for frying)

1. Whisk milk, eggs, sugar, salt and vanilla in a shallow bowl.
2. Heat a frying pan or griddle over medium heat and melt butter to swirl and coat the pan in a thin layer.
3. Dip the bread slice in the egg-and-milk mixture, about 1 minute on each side, until the bread is saturated with the mixture but not turning to mush. Add to the pan and cook until golden on each side. Repeat with the remaining bread slices. (Control the temperature so that the butter does not burn.)
Serve with pure maple syrup (and a side of crisp-fried bacon if you desire).
Enjoy your weekend!

Hiking from one breathtaking Tuscan village to another. #EarningMyFlorentineSteak

{Taken on hike from Pienza to Montepulciano, Italy}

Velvet skies over the city of light.

{Taken from Pont Neuf, Paris}