Food Lovers’ Paris: 1st Arrondisement

Marche St Honore Coll Brush

If you are new to Paris, it’s good to remember that the city is neatly divided into 20 arrondisements (administrative districts), which are indicated by the last 2 digits of a postal code and also on the street signs, which makes it a little bit easier to get a general sense of direction and know where you are. When my cousin visited me in Paris this summer, I bought a map of the city by arrondisement (which you should do if you’re visiting) and painstakingly marked all the good places to eat since I would be at work during the day. It was a great idea; only, she took one look at it and said “Umm, I can’t read maps.” It all worked out in the end. (I gave her directions she understood like “Take the left at Zara, and then go straight until you hit H&M…”) But since I get asked for recommendations to eat in Paris, I thought that this would help others out there. So here it is, Paris for foodies broken down by arrondisement. Bon Appetit!

Food Lovers’ Paris – 1st Arrondisment Map

Open in Google Maps

The * indicates the degree of my affinity to a place, some are favorites and others are great options if you are in the neighborhood. Note that these are purely subjective and based on my likes and dislikes.
Most of the places on this list are moderately priced unless otherwise noted.

Restaurants, Cafes, etc.

Ang Coll 1

Angelina ***
The mecca for lovers of hot chocolate, people come from all over the world to have a taste of the rich chocolat chaud served with a flourish in elegant surroundings. The complete experience at Angelina, which is as Parisian as they come, is as important as the hot chocolate itself (which I find a little too rich actually). It’s like a special treat that you wait for in anticipation and unwrap slowly, savoring each moment. The pastries can be a hit-and-miss – I like the ‘Tartelette Eva’ (dark chocolate and raspberry ganache) and ‘Carla’ (candied chestnut mousse, blueberry jelly), and I’ve never tried the food there. If I were you, I’d go for the hot chocolate and save my euros for elsewhere.
226 Rue de Rivoli, 75001 Paris
Metro: Tuileries/Concorde
01 42 60 82 00
Website

Lecume Coll 1

L’Ecume St. Honore **
A charming poissonnerie (fish shop) near Place du Marché Saint-Honoré that also has seating where you can enjoy some fresh oysters and a glass of wine. The staff is super-friendly – my request to click a few pictures was met with a smiling “Avec plaisir! (With pleasure!)”
6 Rue du Marché Saint-Honoré 75001 Paris, France
Metro: Tuileries/Pyramides
01 42 61 93 87

Le Garde Robe **
A small friendly wine bar near the Louvre serving some excellent natural wines. You can go for a pre-dinner drink, but very often I find I’m having too much of a good time to move and make a meal of their cheese and charcuterie plates. The mixed platter is a great way to taste a great selection of cheese and well cured meat. Ask the staff for wine recommendations, they are happy to help.
41 Rue de l’Arbre Sec 75001 Paris, France
Metro: Louvre-Rivoli/Les Halles
01 49 26 90 60

Isse Jan Coll

Izakaya Issé **
There is no dearth of Japanese places near Rue St. Anne, but this one is my favorite. It advertises itself as a bistro à saké and serves Japanese-style tapas and tempura to go with your drink. But the 12-18€ lunch menu is what I always go here for. The bowl of donburi, the Japanese dish of a bowl of rice topped with meat, fish or vegetables, is my idea of comfort food and the version at Issé is beyond reproach. I usually get the one with pork and the meat literally melts in your mouth. Even the rice is well cooked and soaks up the sweet-and-salty sauce from the meat. The small selection of desserts include green tea crème brûlée and sesame ice cream.
45 Rue de Richelieu, 75001 Paris, France
Metro: Pyramides/Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre
01 42 96 26 60
Website

Jantchi *
My neighborhood restaurant when I’m craving some Korean food. The bibimpap comes laden with rice, meat and assorted pickled vegetables. I usually get takeout after a long day to eat in comfort at home, but sometimes I enviously eye the patrons digging into their soups and hot plates, delicately eating their kimchi with chopsticks. The restaurant is usually crowded, a good sign, so go early.
6 Rue Thérèse 75001 Paris, France
Metro: Pyramides/Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre
01 40 15 91 07

Juv Mous Kun Coll

Juveniles *
This is a cozy wine bar run by a Scotsman, a blink-and-miss-it kind of place that I had walked by several times before realizing it was there. But when I did discover it, I was grateful because it has just the right feel of the neighborhood wine bar, where you drop in for a nice glass of wine and simple, good food. It offers wines from France, Italy, Australia and the wine list changes regularly. The place also double as a wine shop where you can buy bottles to go.
47 Rue de Richelieu 75001 Paris, France
Metro: Pyramides/Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre
01 42 97 46 49

Kunitoraya *
You’ll easily recognize this place by the long line that snakes outside it. I love to go here on a cold rainy day for a bowl of udon, thick house-made noodles in a satisfying hot broth topped with pork, vegetables, poultry or fish. The udon with tempura-fried shrimp or minced pork are my favorites. Living nearby, I have the luxury of going in the off-hours when there is no line, and I suggest you do the same. If it is donburi you want however, I think the one at Issé is much better. (There is also another higher end Kunitoraya that has opened nearby – I have not yet been to this one.)
39 Rue Sainte-Anne 75001 Paris, France (Kunitoraya 2 – 5 rue Villedo 75001 Paris)
Metro: Pyramides/Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre
01 47 03 33 65
Website

La Mousson **
I never thought I’d find Cambodian food in Paris, but there it was just a few steps from my apartment. This place is nothing much to look at, and chances are you’d walk right by without a second glance. But that would be a mistake, because this place serves some truly good food from the Khmer. Try the Amok (stuffed fish with coconut milk and Cambodian spices) and the scallops with fried ginger. The staff are really kind, the room is small but cozy and the paper maché cranes floating from the ceiling lend a touch of whimsy. Prices are a little higher than you would find in Chinatown, but for the quality of the food, I think it’s worth it.
9 Rue Thérèse 75001 Paris, France
Metro: Pyramides/Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre
01 42 60 59 46
Website

LPQ Coll

Le Pain Quotidien *
Yes, it’s a chain but the very fact that they have so many locations makes it a good stop for breakfast, lunch or brunch. Most of their cafes are big and bright, usually with outdoor seating and the communal wooden tables give it a friendly feel . Since the name of their brand is based on bread, it’s not surprising that they do it really well and I love the tiny pots of jam that they serve with it. They serve tartines (open faced sandwiches), big salads and some good coffee. It’s also a great place to pick up a sandwich and a cookie and head for a picnic to the Jardin des Tuleries or Palais Royal.
18, Place Marché St Honoré, 75001 Paris, France
01 42 96 31 70
Metro: Tuileries/Pyramides
5 Rue des Petits Champs, 75001 Paris, France
01 42 60 15 24
Metro: Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre/Pyramides
Website

Le Rubis **
Le Rubis, with its wine barrels doubling as tables outside, lined with red-and-white checkered cloth around which Parisian smoked and enjoyed a glass of wine, is exactly what I’d imagined a Parisian wine bar to be like. I discovered this place last winter when I was walking around looking for a decent cup of coffee (which is surprisingly difficult to find in this city overrun with cafes). Not only did I get a good café noisette, but also found a place I would return to again to enjoy the hearty home-style cooking and a glass (or several) of wine in boisterous and unpretentious surroundings.
10 Rue du Marché Saint-Honoré 75001 Paris, France
01 42 61 03 34
Metro: Tuileries/Pyramides

Spring ***
Pages and pages have been written about this restaurant, which is frequently on everyone’s “best restaurant” list, with its American chef, innovative cuisine that changes with the seasons and market-fresh menu. I can’t add to it because, umm, I haven’t actually been there (even though two of my friends from school are actually completing their stage there). The almost-impossible-to-snare reservation is one of the big reasons, but another is that the more moderately priced lunch menu that I can afford is served only on weekdays when I’m at work. Come to think of it, I’ll get free in January, and I’m sure if I start now I’ll be able to get a table by then! (The reason this restaurant is included here even though I haven’t actually been there is that a simple google search will let you know why it’s on my personal ‘must-try-before-I-leave-Paris’ list.)
6 Rue Bailleul 75001 Paris, France
Metro: Louvre-Rivoli/Les Halles
01 45 96 05 72
Website

Verl Stub Coll

Le Stube *
Frankfurters, pretzels, strudels and currywurst near the Louvre. At this French-German bakery/cafe, there are also fresh salads, savory tarts and cold plates with fresh cream cheese and Black Forest smoked ham. But don’t leave without tasting their delectable pastries – apple strudel, a chocolate and spice Sachertorte, Linzertorte with raspberry marmalade, and Berlinoise with fromage blanc, raisins, lemon and almonds. A great place for a quick lunch or picnic food near the Palais-Royal.
31 Rue de Richelieu 75001 Paris, France
Metro: Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre/Pyramides
01 42 60 09 85
Website

Cafe Verlet **
Step into this cafe and you are greeted with sacks overflowing with coffee beans and the rich earthy aroma of fresh brewed coffee. I have already highlighted how difficult it is to find good coffee in Paris, but this place does not disappoint. You can buy single origin coffee beans from America, Asia or Africa or the house blends (the Haute Mer is my favorite so far), whole or ground for your preferred brewing method. Or head to the salon upstairs, grab a coveted seat by the window, pick your coffee beans and they will grind and brew your drink right there. I sometimes get the café viennois as a special treat – it comes topped high with whipped cream. They also have a small lunch menu and their desserts come from Stohrer, but I find it too expensive for what I get, so I just stick to the coffee, which is all the pleasure I need.
256 Rue Saint-Honoré 75001 Paris, France
Metro: Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre/Tuileries
01 42 60 67 39
Website

Willi’s Wine Bar **
This wine bar, established in 1980, is a Paris institution and an open secret that no one wants to quite give away yet. This place has great food, a great wine list and something so many newcomers pay a lot of money for but don’t quite achieve – character. Stop by for a glass of wine or one of their reasonably priced menus (weekday lunch at the bar counter with a glass of wine is €15.90). The bottle art posters on the wall can be bought online and make for a great (if slightly expensive) souvenir of your experience.
13 Rue des Petits Champs 75001 Paris, France
Metro: Pyramides/Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre/Bourse
01 42 61 05 09
Website

Bakeries, Pastry Shops, etc.

Aki EK Coll

Aki *
Everyone in Paris has a neighborhood boulangerie, which they skip down to get their daily baguette and croissant. This is mine. That it also happens to be a French-Japanese bakery is an incidental fact that I was surprised and delighted by. In addition to the usual French bakery fare, you’ll find brioche with swirls of matcha and red bean paste, green tea madeleines and yuzu eclairs. An outdoor seat on the corner of rue St. Anne makes for some fabulous people watching.
11 Rue Sainte-Anne 75001 Paris, France
Metro: Pyramides/Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre
01 42 97 54 27

Eric Kayser ***
Eric Kayser has built his empire (15 stores in Paris and many more around the world with a new store in New York) on bread and what fabulous bread it is! From the crispy and light baguette to the crunchy pain aux cereales to my absolute favorite, the pain aux noix (walnut bread). Honestly, I’m addicted to this bread – I have it plain, toasted, with butter, jam, nutella, cheese, tapenade… you get the drift. I also like their chocolate chip cookies (yes, great American-style cookies in France). They also have pastries, salads, quiches, but I go there mainly for, as you may have guessed by now, the bread.
33 Rue Danielle Casanova 75001 Paris, France
Metro: Pyramides/Tuileries
01 42 97 59 29
Website

HV Coll

Hugo & Victor **
At this small patisserie beside Place du Marché Saint-Honoré, pastry is art with each creation having its own special place and spotlight. The pastries shine with the skill and creativity of the creators. While the classic flavors of chocolate, caramel and vanilla are present all year around, each season showcases a play on new flavors (this season you’ll find figs, almond, cherry plum, kaffir lime and pear). The macarons, while not as famous as those at Pierre Hermé, are excellent too.
7 rue Gomboust 75001 Paris
Metro: Pyramides/Tuileries
01 42 96 10 20
Website

JPH Coll

Jean Paul Hevin *
This is a decadent chocolate boutique on rue St. Honore – it is almost impossible to choose from the wide collection – should you go with the classics like dark chocolate, praline, coffee or be more adventurous and try the smoked chinese tea or cheese flavored chocolate apéritifs. (Note that I have sometimes found the service here cold and snooty.) There is a salon de thé upstairs where you can enjoy a cup of hot chocolate or pastries. Tip: They have wi-fi in the salon upstairs.
231 Rue Saint-Honoré 75001 Paris, France
Metro: Tuileries
01 55 35 35 96
Website

La Maison du Chocolat *
If you get tired of strolling the Louvre, head down to the Carrousel (the underground shopping mall below the Louvre), step into this house of chocolate and inhale the rich scent. The truffles, pralines and bonbons are tempting, but what I usually get is the textbook perfect eclair or the oversize chocolate macaron.
99 Rue de Rivoli 75001 Paris, France
01 42 97 13 50
Website

Pierre Hermé ***
The name needs no introduction – for many food lovers, Pierre Hermé is the first stop for a box of macarons. And unlike so many other things, they live up to the expectation. The biscuit is the perfect texture and the filling not too sweet. The classics like the salted butter caramel will always reign but don’t leave without trying their ever-changing inventive flavors. (My recent favorite is the Mosaic – pistachio, ceylon cinnamon & morello cherries.) They are not famous for their ice cream, but they should be. I’m especially in love with their ice cram sandwiches. (That’s how you make a macaron better!) Choose one from their amazing flavors (red berry sorbet & mint, orange & passion fruit, the famous ispahan – rose, litchi & raspberry) and enjoy your sweet treat in the nearby Jardin des Tuileries. Note that this location does not sell pastries, primarily only macarons, chocolate and ice cream.
4 rue Cambon 75001 Paris, France
Metro: Concorde
01 43 54 47 77
Website

Shops

Fromage Coll

E. Dehillerin **
You can get lost for days in here without coming up for air. A warehouse of a store, E. Dehillerin has been around for almost 200 years! You can find every kind of kitchen utensil, tool, equipment you could possibly imagine here. It can be a little intimidating and frankly, mind boggling if you don’t really know what you want. The store is geared more towards professional chefs, but it’s still fun to poke around and especially ogle their gorgeous copperware (my student budget forces me to just admire, you can buy as well). Prices are not listed on individual items but in a big catalogue; hey, it wouldn’t be Paris if it wasn’t complicated.
18 Rue Coquillière 75001 Paris, France
Metro: Les Halles
01 42 36 53 13
Website

Fromagerie Hisada **
My neighborhood fromagerie, this is a gorgeous little store. I’ve bought some fabulous goat cheeses from here, but don’t just stop there. They have a friendly staff, who are eager to help you choose from the small but great selection. They also stock the famous Bordier butter, which if you haven’t tried yet, you must! Soon. I also like their (French style) yuzu cheesecake, which makes for a delicious teatime snack. The shop has a tasting salon and also creates menus revolving around their cheese.
47 rue de Richelieu 75001 Paris, France
Metro: Pyramides/Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre
01 42 60 78 48
Website

Mora ***
A baker’s dream come true – I try to never enter this store if I have any significant amount of money on me (or even the 10 euros that I may have to do my laundry). Because heaven knows, I’m going to spend it. On beautiful molds or whisks or spatulas or cookbooks… Although the store has things for the entire kitchen (with beautiful Staub cookware as well), the focus is definitely more towards baking and chocolate. This store will make you want to bake. Since this is Paris, it seems fairly apt.
13 Rue Montmartre 75001 Paris, France
Metro: Les Halles
01 45 08 19 24

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4 Responses to Food Lovers’ Paris: 1st Arrondisement

  1. Archana says:

    Hi Heena, This article is absolutely wonderful. I was in Paris a few months back, and being a tourist, I was mainly moving around the central arrondisements..I did goto the standard haunts..angelinas, wine bars in le marais (forget the names now)…I was keen on trying out some popular local places (the type that one knows about only when one lives in the city) but I didnt have time to scout around …I am a foodie myself and this article is extremely useful…specially given that you have tried and tested all of them :) Am sure I will make another trip to Paris sometime..and will defi try out some of the names above..Cheers…

    • tiffintales says:

      Hi, I’m glad you like it. A lot of the best food I’ve had here has been in small local places, and I wanted to share them. I should be doing posts on other arrondisements soon, so keep a look out.

  2. Amrut says:

    Hey, you should do one of the restaurants you took us to in goa as well. Maybe when youre back in India we can put that on your to do list.

  3. Pingback: 10 Delicious Things You Must Eat in Paris | Tiffin Tales

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